Imagine a restaurant so renowned it boasts two Michelin stars, yet it’s slapped with a one-star hygiene rating. Sounds like a contradiction, right? Well, that’s exactly what happened to Ynyshir, a celebrated Welsh restaurant nestled near Machynlleth on the edge of the Eryri national park. Hailed as one of the world’s finest dining destinations, Ynyshir opened its doors in 2013 and quickly ascended to culinary stardom, earning its first Michelin star in 2014 and a second in 2022—a first for Wales. With prices starting at £468 per person, it’s an experience reserved for the most discerning food enthusiasts.
But here’s where it gets controversial: despite its global acclaim, Ynyshir recently received a one-star hygiene rating from the Food Standards Agency, indicating a need for ‘major improvement.’ How can a restaurant with such prestige fall short on basic hygiene standards? Chef patron Gareth Ward, a former MasterChef: The Professionals contestant, isn’t sweating it. He told the BBC he’s ‘not embarrassed’ by the rating, attributing it to inspectors’ concerns over his use of raw and aged ingredients—a hallmark of his innovative cuisine.
Ward explained, ‘I source sashimi-grade fish from Japan, but inspectors questioned its safety because they’re unfamiliar with the water standards.’ He added, ‘This fish is consumed raw globally, yet their rules don’t align with ours.’ Ward also highlighted his state-of-the-art salt chamber for ageing fish, a technique inspectors seemed to disapprove of. ‘We’re doing something different,’ he emphasized, ‘and I’m not ashamed of that.’
To address food safety, Ynyshir employs a specialist compliance company and houses a £50,000 freezer capable of reaching -80°C. After the inspection, the restaurant’s fish underwent independent lab testing, which found no issues. Ward admitted the inspectors ‘weren’t 100% wrong,’ and has since installed an additional hand-washing station in the fish preparation area. He also acknowledged paperwork errors, noting, ‘Sometimes you miss things or write them down incorrectly. I’d need a full-time office worker to ensure perfection.’
And this is the part most people miss: in Wales and Northern Ireland, all food establishments are legally required to display their hygiene rating prominently. Ynyshir has requested a reinspection, though a date hasn’t been set. Is this a case of bureaucratic red tape clashing with culinary innovation, or a legitimate oversight in food safety? Let’s discuss—do you think Ynyshir’s unique approach justifies the low hygiene rating, or should standards be non-negotiable, no matter the prestige?
